THERE is a wide range of experience and expertise in our readership, ranging from highly qualified engineering craftsmen with a lifetime of experience behind them to people with no engineering background and very little workshop experience. This article for the less experienced is about some workshop basics.
No doubt many of my readers will think that I am trying to teach my granny to suck eggs but even grannies are not immune from learning something new occasionally. After nearly 70 years on the workshop learning curve I am still climbing steadily! Bear with me if you already know it all and if you disagree with me, write to the editor and say so!!
Let me put my cards on the table straight away. I am not a subscriber to the “if it’s near enough it’s good enough” philosophy. I take the view that if the job calls for a particular dimension or finish for a component then every effort should be made to achieve that requirement. Inevitably the effort will not always be met with success – perfection will always be out of reach. That is no reason not to strive for it however.
The effort made to achieve accurate results is amply repaid by the ease with which parts fit together and by the appearance of the finished job. Appearance is important. The human eye is amazingly accurate and will detect extremely small errors in symmetry or parallelism and although you may feel that the accuracy of a non-critical feature is functionally adequate (the radius on the end of a link for example) errors of only a few thou may render the feature visually offensive.
Personally, I make just as much effort to achieve accuracy in areas where it is of secondary importance as I do for important features such as cylinder bores. This is partly because of the satisfaction obtained from a job well done and partly because the discipline of getting the less important things right serves well in getting the important things correct.
What this preamble is leading up to is the subject of measuring and measuring equipment. I may be wrong, but I get the impression that the less experienced model engineers among us and, in particular newcomers to the hobby with little or no engineering background, place a low priority on equipping themselves with good quality and reliable measuring equipment. They will spend significant sums on machine tools, cutters and screwing tackle but consider an electronic digital slide gauge adequate for all of their measuring needs. This, in my view, is a big mistake. I have nothing against slide gauges in principle (although I have had worrying experience of the electronic variety and always use traditional vernier type gauges) and there are some situations where they are the only practical solution to a measuring requirement, but in my opinion the humble screw micrometer provides the most accurate and reliable means of measurement for everyday workshop needs.
Slide gauges do not provide the same ‘feel’ as is obtained with a micrometer and this inevitably places a limit on the accuracy that can be achieved. Micrometers are not expensive tools and good quality second hand instruments (or ‘previously owned’ to use the ‘in’ jargon) are usually excellent value for money. Most people will start with a 0 – 1in. (or 0 -25mm if you are a metric convert) micrometer but the measuring range available should be increased to at least 4in. (100mm). My own measuring equipment includes micrometers up to 12in. capacity, but this is rather more than found in most model engineers’ workshops.
By their nature, the measuring heads of micrometers are normally limited to a range of 1in. (25mm) and to cover a greater range than this it is necessary to use either separate instruments for each 1in. (25mm) increment of the range required or an instrument with interchangeable anvils in a single frame, enabling the range required to be selected by fitting an appropriate anvil. Presumably one of the attractions of the slide gauge to beginners is the ability of a single tool to cover a large range of measurement.
The zero setting of the basic 0-1in. (0-25mm) micrometer is easily checked by closing the spindle to the anvil and checking that the reading is zero. For an instrument with any other range a setting gauge or length standard is required. Appropriate length standards are supplied with new instruments over 1in. (25mm) range. If you are buying a second hand instruments make sure that suitable length standards are included and try to have them checked by an independent authority.
Figure 1 shows a group of micrometers covering a range of 0 to 4in. together with a single instrument with interchangeable anvils covering the same range. Every
time an anvil is changed the setting should be checked – a scrap of dirt under the anvil seating will destroy the accuracy of the instrument. The length standards for the single instrument are included in its case while a set of standards up to 5in. is shown at the bottom right hand corner of the picture.
The principle of operation of a screw micrometer employs the very useful characteristic of a screw thread - that one revolution of the screw advances the spindle by an amount equal to the pitch of the thread and part of a revolution advances the spindle by an exactly proportional part of the pitch. This may seem like stating the obvious, but the
