By Jason Ballamy 
Part fourteen - Cart
M4. C4n

I decided not to use the cast sub-base in favour of a "hand portable" cart and a bit of time spent on Google Images resulted in an old e-bay advert for an original Galloway hand cart and some useful dimensions in the description.

Armed with the sizes and photos I was able to arrive at a suitable design and decided to tackle the wheels first, this is what I was aiming to reproduce.

Luckily the wheels scaled out at 5.5" and I was able to buy some 139.7mm dia x 5mm wall ERW tube. I cut off two pieces long enough to get 2 rims out of each. The rings were held in the 4 jaw trying not to distort things too much, that was why I opted to do two from each ring as at the early stages there would be twice the amount of metal so more rigid. The outside was just skimmed and a recess cut on the inside to take the rim down to 2mm thickness.

I also bought four 150mm x 5mm thick laser cut steel discs from the same e-bay seller as the tube and proceeded to trepan out the middle. Rather than cut all the way through and risk the central disk doing something you don't want I like to cut from both sides until almost meeting. Then support the disk and give the middle a whack and it should open up like a tin can.
I then turned down the outsides so they would fit into the rims and rest in the bottom of the recess.
Followed by a bit of silver solder
It was then back to the lathe to thin the other side down to 2mm, reduce the depth of the central web and then using a form tool to round over the web edge
Hubs are made from 1.125" steel parted off from the bar. Machine to length, drill under size and turn the short parallel section on each end.
Make up a mandrel and with the aid of the ball turner cut the concave profile in one end
Repeat to profile the other end, then profile the centre radius then with a file and emery and the basic shape is complete.
Now transfer the mandrel to the chuck on the rotary table and drill and tap six M4 holes followed by a shallow 1/4" counterbore.
I used up all my 5/32" and 4mm steel making the spokes so the last few had to come from some chromed brass that was in the scrap box. Use about 50" of material in total. These were threaded M4 one end and rounded over on the other with a simple form tool.
I then cut six half round recesses into the rim web to suit the rounded end of the spokes
The hub nipples were faced to length and rounded over, to speed things up I arranged the two tools on the tool post to save having to re-chuck 24 times. These were also tapped M4 for part of their length and drilled 4mm for the remainder.
A quick mock up of the hub, the spokes can be screwed in/out to true the wheel and then the nipples used as locknuts to hold them in place, the counterbore in the nipple hides any spoke thread.
The rim nipples are a similar job but drilled 4mm right through and notched 5mm to slip over the rim web, this locks the other spoke end in place.
All 4 wheels were then assembled with some soft solder paste where needed before heating to melt the solder. Following that I mounted them on the lathe, clocked the rim true and then bored the hub to finished size so the wheel would spin true on the axle.
A quick clean up and that’s the wheels done.